Smolensk.

History

The town grew out of a settlement of the Krivichi tribe and gradually became a major trading centre, although historians debate the authenticity of the first mention under 863. From the 11th to the 15th century Smolensk was the capital of a principality, and in the 12th and 13th centuries it matched other Russian cities in its number of stone churches. In 1595–1602, under Boris Godunov, the architect Fyodor Kon built a fortress wall around the town. Smolensk burned during Napoleon's invasion in 1812, and in 1941–1943 it was occupied and almost completely destroyed before being rebuilt; in 1985 it was named a Hero City.

Culture & traditions

The Assumption Cathedral towers over the city, and pre-Mongol architecture survives in the Church of St Michael the Archangel, known as the Svirskaya Church (1197), and other early buildings. Smolensk claims composer Mikhail Glinka, born in the region, and holds an annual music festival in his honour. The city has the Griboyedov Drama Theatre, a philharmonic hall, a history museum and an art gallery. It is also linked with Princess Maria Tenisheva, whose Talashkino estate became a notable centre of Russian art.

Sport

The city's best-known club is FC Dnepr, named after the river. There is also the Slavutich ice hockey club, volleyball and basketball teams, and several stadiums and ice arenas.

Practical information

Smolensk is a major rail hub on the Moscow–Brest main line, with trains from Moscow since 1870, and the M1 highway runs nearby. The civil Smolensk South airport has no regular flights, so air travellers usually come via Moscow. Trams, trolleybuses and buses serve the city. The climate is temperate continental and fairly damp, so May to September is the best time to walk the fortress wall.

What to see

• Smolensk fortress wall — Fyodor Kon's vast towered fortification
• Assumption Cathedral — the city's dominant landmark on a hill above the Dnieper
• Svirskaya Church — the Church of St Michael the Archangel from 1197
• Griboyedov Drama Theatre — the city's main stage
• Talashkino — Tenisheva's former estate and an art centre, nearby